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From the road

Notes from the road, newest first.

Page 1 of 1 · 4 dispatches

  1. From the road

    Everett, a fire station and a proclamation

    She packed up the tent that morning and went looking for a lift back to the four miles she had already covered the day before. She found one at a car wash: a man named Tony, who drove her up the highway, had a good visit with her on the way, and photographed the QR code that hangs round her neck before he left.

    She was in Everett by two in the afternoon, early enough to feel good about it, and spent the rest of the day doing the thing the walk is for. At Everett Fire Station #1 a firefighter took the information and said he would put it in front of the crew who were in that week for training.

    Then the city council. The board had helped her bring an old sample proclamation up to date, so she had something to hand across. When her turn came she said that her granddaughter was diagnosed with leukemia at a month old, that a stranger’s marrow saved her life, and that the council could make a difference by proclaiming a bone marrow awareness day. They were nodding before she finished.

    Afterwards the woman who handles the proclamations said she had not understood quite how long a walk this was, and set about finding her a bed for the night. A police lieutenant and one of his officers sorted it out. She had a shower, washed her clothes by hand, and someone put them through a dryer for her in the morning.

    It wasn’t like I had to do a hard sell; this was something that touched their hearts immediately.
    Jeana Moore
    A life-size carved wooden figure of a firefighter in a red helmet, holding a bundle, standing indoors by a window.
    A local history display board headed Everett, Washington, with archive photographs and a Mount Rainier panel.
    A wide arterial road on the edge of town in afternoon light, traffic in the distance and a bare sidewalk in the foreground.
  2. From the road

    Four miles borrowed from tomorrow

    A short one. She found somewhere to put the tent early in the evening — tucked away, and safe enough that she could leave the big pack behind and walk two miles up the route and two miles back again without carrying it. That took four miles off the next day, which is the kind of arithmetic that matters six weeks out.

    She has asked a great many strangers for a great many things this week, and she has settled into a way of doing it.

    Whatever answer you give is okay, it’s the right answer for you. And I receive it without disappointment or judgment.
    Jeana Moore
    A broad low-branched tree in full leaf on a patch of dry grass, with parked cars and a building behind it.
    A halibut cast in dark metal and set flat into a pale concrete sidewalk.
    A second sidewalk casting beside it, a long tuna with its fins picked out in relief.
    Distance walked
    8 miles
  3. From the road

    Day one out of Fred Hutch, and a long way to a bed

    She left Fred Hutch on a bright Monday morning and the questions started almost straight away. People stopped her on the road to photograph the sign on the back of her pack, or the tag she wears round her neck with the QR codes on it. A Russian woman. Minash, from India. A crew of firefighters who said they would pass the word on. It was Labor Day, and the city was full of people from everywhere.

    The walking was harder than the map made it look. Out of Fred Hutch the hills were steep, and 20th Avenue took her down a footpath, down a long flight of wooden steps and along a trail through the trees before turning up a climb so steep she was afraid the pack would pull her over backwards. For the last ten yards she took it off, swung it ahead of her a few feet at a time, and followed it up.

    Finding somewhere to sleep took the rest of the evening. A pastor would have helped and was not allowed to. The police had no vouchers left. A fire station could not put her up, or let her pitch the tent inside its yard. In among all that, a man named Minaj working the counter at a 7-Eleven bought her a coffee and a power bar — he could not simply give them to her, he had to ring them through — and then paid for the car that carried her on. The man driving it was called Mohamed.

    It was dark by the time she was back on her route, and she does not like walking in the dark, but there were sidewalks and there were streetlights. She stopped at a place called Sunnie’s Express, where they let her charge her phone and rest her feet until closing, and then she carried on until she found somewhere safe to put the tent.

    When I ask if I can stay somewhere, I ask with an openness that allows for any answer.
    Jeana Moore
    Jeana Moore in a hi-vis vest, smiling on a sofa beside her packed rucksack and tent, holding a yellow STOP BLOOD CANCER banner with a QR code on it.
    A long flight of weathered wooden steps climbing steeply up through green trees.
    Jeana Moore leaning out of a car window, laughing, next to a young man in a 7-Eleven uniform taking the photograph.
    Distance walked
    12.4 miles
  4. From the road

    Why a woman is about to walk 356 miles to ask you for a cheek swab

    Jeana Moore’s granddaughter Jada was one month old when she was diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia. The man who matched her, Torsten Huber, had joined a donor register in Germany more than a year before Jada was born — for no reason, on an ordinary afternoon, for a patient who did not exist yet.

    That is the whole argument of this walk. A registry cannot conjure up a donor on the day a child is diagnosed. The names have to already be on the list.